Emeralds & May

As mentioned before, emeralds are the birthstone for May, so we thought it would be a great opportunity to share a little bit about emeralds. The word Emerald is derived from the Greek word “Smaragdos” which means “green stone.”  Emeralds are considered precious gems and have been found in ancient Egyptian and Etruscan tombs dating back to 3000 to 1500 B.C.  It is believed that Cleopatra loved emeralds so much that she claimed the mines all for herself.  She was known for wearing lots of large emerald jewelry and gave emeralds carved with her portrait to the visitors she highly regarded. Emeralds have also been frequently used in the decorations of sacred images throughout the ages.

The meaning or significance of emeralds has varied over the years based on locations and culture. Emeralds have been said to give a supernatural ability to foretell future events.  They were once thought to improve memory and expression, quicken intelligence, and provide immunity for epilepsy.  Now, you will hear that emeralds represent good luck and well-being or represent springtime, beauty, and consistent love.

Here are some particularly interesting historical views on emeralds:

The Romans

In ancient Rome, green was the color of Venus, the goddess of beauty and love.  The Romans believed that nothing evil could remain in the presence of the emerald and that it also helped uncover those who were disloyal by changing color and turning pale. The falling of an emerald from its setting was considered a bad omen. Emeralds were thought to be very beneficial to the eyes and it has been recorded that Emperor Nero, who was very short-sighted, used an emerald eye-glass to watch the gladiatorial contests.

The Incas

The Incas possessed some amazing emeralds. One of their emeralds was described as being as large as the egg of an ostrich and was inhabited by Esmeralda, the chief goddess of Peru. When ransacking the temples of Esmeralda upon their arrival, the Spanish discovered immense quantities of emeralds.  Peruvians also believed that the emerald mines were protected by demon spirits.

Emeralds, like all colored gemstones, are graded using four basic components: Color, Cut, Clarity and Crystal.   Typically, in the grading of colored gemstones, color is the most important criterion.  In grading an emerald, the crystal is considered a close second.   A fine emerald must possess not only a pure green hue, but also a high degree of transparency considered a great gem.

Color

Color can be divided into three elements: hue, saturation, and tone.  Emeralds occur in hues ranging from yellow-green to blue-green, with the primary hue as green.  The hues found adjacent to green on the color wheel, yellow, blue, and red are commonly the secondary hues found in emeralds. Only gems that have medium to dark tone are considered emerald; light-toned gems are known instead as green beryl.

Clarity

Emerald tends to have many inclusions and surface breaking fissures.  Unlike diamond, where magnification is needed to grade clarity, emeralds can be graded by eye.  If an emerald has no visible inclusions the eye, it is considered flawless. Fine inclusions do not diminish the value of emeralds.  Stones that lack surface breaking fissures are extremely rare and almost all emeralds are treated or “oiled” to enhance the apparent clarity. Eye-clean stones with a bright primary green hue with no more than 15% of any secondary hue or combination of a medium-dark tone have a better value.

Treatments

Again, most emeralds are oiled with cedar oil in order to improve their clarity. Other liquids, including synthetic oils and polymers can also used. The use of oil is traditional and widely accepted by the gem trade. Other treatments, such as using green-tinted oil, are not accepted in the trade. The laboratory community has standardized the language for grading the clarity of emeralds. Emeralds are graded on a scale: none, minor, moderate and highly enhanced.  Laboratories apply the criteria differently and some consider any traces of oil or polymers enhancement, while some will not consider trace amounts if it does not improve the look of the emerald.

Although many people consider Colombia to be the source of the best emeralds, the country of origin is never a guarantee of quality. Brazil , Zambia, Zimbabwe, Afghanistan and Russia are also producers of high quality stones.

A delicate Emerald & Diamond Pendant now available at Bellman's

 

 

 

 

 

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Where did the idea of birthstones come from anyway?

Emeralds are the birthstone for May, but how did this come about? Why is it meaningful for us to have our birth month represented by a natural gemstone?   There is an extensive history around gemstones and how they became what we consider birthstones today.

Breast Plate of Aaron

An image of what the Breast Plate of Aaron, the High Priest, could have looked like. There are 12 gemstones representing the 12 tribes of Israel.

The idea of birthstones can be traced back to the Breastplate of Aaron described in the Bible in the book of Exodus 28:17-21. The Breastplate was worn as a religious garment by Hebrews’ high priest.  It was set with twelve gemstones that represented the twelve tribes of Israel.  Some people of Jewish heritage may still wish to elect to wear birthstones based on his/her tribal name.

Over time, gemstones became associated with the twelve signs of the zodiac through the writings of Flavius Josephus (1st century AD) and St. Jerome (fifth century AD).  They proposed that each gemstone had special powers associated with astrological signs and that wearing these stones at the right time would have therapeutic benefits.  As the years progressed, astrologers designated gems of certain colors to the twelve signs of the zodiac to help people influence the planets in their favor.

Sign Dates Stone
Aquarius January 21 – February 21 Garnet
Pisces February 22 – March 21 Amethyst
Aries March 22 – April 20 Bloodstone
Taurus April 21 – May 21 Sapphire
Gemini May 22 – June 21 Agate
Cancer June 21 – July 22 Emerald
Leo July 23 – August 22 Onyx
Virgo August 23 – September 22 Carnelian
Libra September 23 – October 23 Peridot
Scorpio October 24 – November 21 Beryl
Sagittarius November 22 – December21 Topaz
Capricorn December 22 – January 21 Ruby

In 18thcentury, Jewish gemstone traders arrived in Poland and introduced the idea of people wearing a gemstone corresponding to the month of his or her birth. The modern list of birthstones was defined in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers (Jewelers of America) in the USA and has been unchanged since then, although there have been two attempts to do so.  Here’s a modern chart of birthstones.

Modern Birthstone Chart

 

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Mother’s Day May 13, 2012

Once again, it’s time to come up for a thoughtful gift for mom on Mother’s Day.  If you have a mom similar to mine, shopping can be tough!  What do you get for a woman who has everything?  And what gift can possibly show her the gratitude you feel for all she’s done?   Come on, she dealt with you as a teenager!  You’ve given her flowers, chocolates, trinkets, and candles for years… now what? Then the light bulb goes off – jewelry!  Every woman loves jewelry and it’s a gift that lasts a lifetime.   Believe me, she’ll be happier with a new pair of earrings over that new popcorn popper.

So, what type of jewelry do you choose?  Here are some pieces that are sure to please – and there are options out there for those of us on a budget.

  1. A Pendant.  Here’s a piece that she’ll be able to wear with everything. Mother Child Pendant
  2. A watch.  Your mom might already wear a watch, but it might be one that she’s had for 20 years.  Why not upgrade?
  3. Get her earrings, a bracelet, ring or pendant with her birthstone or all of her children’s birthstones. 
  4. Diamond.  Now what woman doesn’t like bling?!

 

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Bellman’s Cares about Ethical Sourcing!

Diamonds are formed by nature and are on average 3.3 billion years old.  Diamonds represent endurance and strength and for those reasons, are a symbol of love. They are given as gifts throughout our lives on significant events such as graduations, engagements, anniversaries and are passed down from generation to generation.  Confidence in knowing where your diamond came from, its quality and whether or not it was acquired fairly is important!

Bellman’s has always been committed to selling quality diamonds that are responsibly and ethically traded. In order to maintain our supply of Ideal Cut diamonds we are partners with a diamond cutting facility located in Israel.  The rough stones they receive to cut are mined in Russia.  In addition to controlling the source and quality of the diamonds we sell, there no wholesalers or middlemen in between adding commissions to our purchases, which passes the savings down to our customers!

View our You Tube video on Diamond Cutting this very popular video has nearly 29,000 views.

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The Beauty of Ceylon Sapphires!

Bellman Jewelers has been purchasing loose sapphires from two close friends from Sri Lanka for several years now and they had their annual visit today!  This married couple specializes in supplying high quality Ceylon Sapphires and other semi-precious gemstones.  From mining, to rural transport, to going to the “rough” gem market, to cutting and finishing, they’re involved throughout the process.   All their hard work is definitely shown off by the beauty of the sapphires!

David of Bellman's meeting with his friends from Sri Lanka

Sapphires are the most popular gemstone in the world and are the second hardest stone, behind diamond, making them highly durable.  We know that sapphires have been mined, set into jewelry, and traded since 500 B.C.  The Etruscans, Greeks, and Romans sought after them.   Sapphire rings have been popular since the Middle Ages when clergy preferred the blue stone because they believed that the color represented heaven.  Magicians thought that sapphires helped them command spirits and others believe that they could ward off evil and sickness, including the plague!  Prince Charles even presented Princess Diana with a sapphire and diamond engagement ring!

Ceylon Sapphires receive their name because of they come from.  Sri Lanka, an island off of the southern coast of India, was formerly known as Ceylon.  Ceylon was the island’s old English name.  The Indians used to call Sri Lanka “Ratnadeepa,” which means “Island of Gems.”   Ceylon sapphires are lighter and brighter than sapphires mined from other areas and are known for their beauty.

Ceylon Sapphires

They also have very few visible inclusions, giving them a higher value.  Ceylon sapphires also come in hues of pink, yellow, orange, green, purple, and padparadcha, which exhibits colors of the sunset from orange to pink to red.

Ceylon Sapphires come from gravel deposits located on the southern two-thirds of Sri-Lanka.  The original source of the stones is unknown, however, scientists believes that the parent rock to the sapphire is called Precambrian Metamorphic rock. This rock also makes up 90 % of Sri Lanka.  It is also speculated that the erosion of the parent rock is what has created the sapphire deposits.  Sapphires are mined from riverbeds using hand-made scrapers and are minded from the land using picks, shovels, spades, and baskets.  There are some larger mining operations where equipment is used to move the soil, however, the sapphires are taken out by hand.

Sapphires are one of the only gems that can be sold completely as a natural stone or without any heat treatment.  Heat treatment is the only permanent and stable treatment that should be used to treat sapphires.  This method of treating sapphires has been used for over 2,000 years.  Heating stones at a high temperature improves the stone’s clarity and intensifies the color.  Weaker sapphires break during this process and only the strong survive.  Once heated, it cannot be undone, as the heat impacts the entire stone, not just the surface.  There are surface treatments methods, such as beryllium diffusion, but these are not preferred treatment methods.

Ultimately, the origin, color, weight, clarity, cut, and treatment of the stone determines the value.  Here’s a look at a beautiful Ceylon Sapphire Ring Bellman’s manufactured recently!

Ceylon Sapphire & Diamond Ring

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Bellman’s makes a 100-year-old Discovery!

David Bellman

Today, which is nearly the 100th anniversary of the Titanic’s sinking, David Bellman of Bellman Jewelers had the rare opportunity to appraise one of the artifacts recovered from the wreckage, a solid gold locket set with several small diamonds that once belonged to Edward Herbert Keeping.  Keeping was the man servant to George Dunton Widener, a millionaire and owner of the Ritz Carlton.  The locket was recovered when Keeping’s body was pulled from the ocean shortly after the ship sank.  When originally recovered, the locket contained photographs of his wife and daughter.

Bobby Livingston from R.R. Auction House in Amherst New Hampshire will be auctioning off the item this month.  Robert brought the locket to Bellman Jewelers to authenticate the item and gain a better understanding about the piece.

This side of the locket has the Art Nuevo Fairy.

While examining the locket, it is clear that the piece is of the Art Nuevo period.  The circular piece measures approximately 1.5 inches in diameter and weighs 11.6 grams.  The front of the locket was created by using a repoussé technique and is the impression of a fairy with arms and wings outstretched.  There are six inlaid Old European cut diamonds that follow the shape of her wings. The reverse side is engraved with Edward Herbert Keeping’s initials.  The locket is made of 14k yellow gold.  The type of gold cannot be determined for certain without additional testing however the bail of the locket is stamped 14K.

The locket currently holds two circular photographs.  On the left side, is a photograph of Keeping and on the right, a photograph of his wife, Karin Johansson.  After removing Keepings photo on the left, there is a hand-engraved marking which could have indicate what the item originally sold for.  Before tags, jewelers used to scratch pricing information in the gold.  The markings behind Keeping’s photo were XX17.

Locket after second picture was discovered.

While removing the photograph of Johansson on the alternate side, another photograph was found!  The front of the photograph is clearly damaged by water but the back of the photo is states “Mildred, 1 yr.”  This is the original photograph of his daughter that was originally placed in the locket with his handwriting!  On the back of his wife’s photograph, “Mildred’s mamma” was written in what looks to be the same handwriting.  Bobby stated “This is a very exciting discovery, we had no idea the other original photo was saved”  With the addition of Keeping’s daughters photo Bobby expects the pendant to sell for over $100,000.00.

Bobby, David, & members of the Union Leader

Two members of the Union Leader newspaper were also present to report on the item and to photograph this historical novelty.  The bidding for this item will begin April 19th at 9:30 am EST and will end on April 26th.  For more information and to see additional items for auction visit RR Auction.

 


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FBI Looking for “One-of-a-Kind” Stolen Liberty Bell Ruby

The FBI has issued an alert to be on the lookout for four suspects who stole a “one-of-a-kind” ruby sculpted into the Liberty Bell, valued at $2 million.

Four thieves nabbed the 4.5 lb. gem, along with many other items, from a safe in Stuart Kingston Jewelers in Wilmington, Del., on Nov. 1. The piece hails from an 8,500 ct. piece of ruby listed in Guinness Book of World Records as the “largest uncut ruby in the world.” There were also 50 diamonds attached to it, representing the 50 states.

The case was featured on last week’s America Most Wanted.

“It’s a one-of-a-kind piece,” says store owner Jim Stein, who first acquired it at an antique show in New York. “We were hoping to have someone donate it to a museum.”

He notes that the ruby isn’t gem quality, so it’s unlikely it will be recut.

“It will be a hard thing to sell,” Stein says. “Now that it’s gotten some notoriety, we are hoping that someone will speak up.”

Anyone with information can call the FBI at 302-218-6252.

View Robbery Video

 

 

 

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$21,000 Diamond Unearthed at Arkansas Park

Murfreesboro, AR—A lucky couple digging at the Crater of Diamonds State Park found more than they expected for an afternoon’s outing—about $21,000 more. Melissa and Kenny Oliver, who live in the state, found a 2.44-ct. piece of remarkably clean rough that, when cut, yielded a 1.06-ct. pear-shaped diamond, shown left. Christened the Silver Moon, the finished diamond is almost perfect, and is valued at $21,000.

Bill Underwood of Underwood’s Fine Jewelry in Fayetteville, AR, appraised the stone and said the diamond is close to the best that’s ever come out of the park. The best, he said, was the Strawn-Wagner diamond, an AGS Triple Zero, or a GIA D IF—and the first to receive the 000 grade. That stone, found in 1997, is now on permanent display at the park after the state of Arkansas mounted a campaign to raise funds to buy it. Other notable stones from the mine include the 40.23-ct. Uncle Sam, found in 1924 and to date the largest diamond ever found in North America; and the Kahn Canary, an uncut fancy yellow that is naturally flawless. The Kahn Canary was found by George Strepp in 1977, then bought and named by Stanley Kahn of the former Kahn’s Jewelers in Pine Bluff, and set in a Henry Dunay “Cynnabar” ring worn by Hillary Clinton for the inauguration of President Bill Clinton in 1993.

An AGS Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Underwood helped get the Silver Moon diamond cut, a process that took about six weeks. It was cut in New York but the name of the firm that did the cutting is confidential.

“It’s a beautiful diamond, lots of brilliance and sparkle,” said Underwood. It finished to about an F color, VS2, with an AGS cut grade of 1, he told The Centurion.

The 2.44-ct. Silver Moon rough, shown here, finished out to the 1.06-ct. F VS2 stone shown at the top of the page.

Lots of people dig at the Crater of Diamonds, explained Underwood. In fact, he says, many will go back several days a week, or bring an RV and camp out and dig for days, hoping to strike it rich.

The park churns up about the first four or five feet of earth, and allows diggers to go down to eight feet. “It’s a real mine. It’s never been commercially productive enough to be anything but a tourist attraction, but it has a legitimate blue [kimberlite] pipe and it is a real mine,” says Underwood. The mine is located just outside Murfreesboro, a small town in west-central Arkansas, and, until mines were discovered in Canada at the end of the 20th century, it was the only legitimate diamond mine in North America, and to date it still is the only known diamond mine within the United States.

This isn’t the first diamond from the mine that Underwood has gotten cut, but they are rare. Most are too small (or too flawed) to cut. The yield isn’t enough, added Craig Underwood.

After viewing the Silver Moon’s proportions, Bill Underwood determined a pear was the best shape for the piece of rough, and he sent it to New York to be cut. The look on the couple’s face when he unwrapped the finished stone was “priceless,” he said. They’ve taken the stone back to the Crater, hoping to be able to sell it.

Although Underwood isn’t acting as an agent for the sale of the stone, he’s gotten a lot of publicity around it. The local TV station, KFSM, filmed an interview in the store, and then sent it out to CNN, where it’s been seen around the country.

Click here to watch this story on CNN 

 


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The Centurion Jewelry Show 2012

Okay, so I didn’t exactly follow through on my plan to blog everyday from the show, in fact I’m already home.  Nevertheless it was an excellent show and I will fill you in on the highlights.  The show was very well attended with over 200 of the top jeweler designers in America all displaying new fashions for 2012.

First, I worked with my partners from Israel looking through a very large inventory of recently cut loose diamonds from our factory and I selected several Hearts and Arrows Cut round diamonds and my favorite Forever After Cut diamonds in round and princess shapes.  For those of you have never had the opportunity to see a Forever After Cut princess diamond, the brilliance is truly amazing, almost equal to that of a round brilliant cut.  Next time you visit Bellman’s ask one of us to show you a Forever Princess and see for yourself what a difference strategically placing a few extra facets in the right place can make.

I then visited with Charles and Brian Krypell the newest and most successful designer line ever introduced a Bellman’s.  We discuss our continued sell through of his silver and gold line and we decided to add several new reversible pendants from his 18k gold semi-precious line.  These unique and highly detailed pendants can be worn two ways giving the wearer the versatility to switch looks by simple turning the pendant around to show a completely different design.  It like getting two pendants for the price of one.

Charles then gave us a private showing of his new family jewelry line call Pea Pods.  Without giving away too much, this new family jewelry concept allows the wearer to add finely designed silver beads set with colored-stones or diamonds to either a necklace or a bracelet.  Each bead representing a different member of the family.  As he places the finishing touches to this design, Bellman’s has agreed to be one of the first jewelers in the country to display this new jewelry concept.  I will keep you updated.

One of the highlights of the show was an early morning breakfast keynote address from Randi Zucherberg who’s brother Mark founded Facebook back when he was a student at Harvard.  Randi ran the marketing department Facebook for 6 years and is currently CEO of her own marketing firm.

She fascinated us with stories about her brother and from her time at Facebook.  Randi also explained her thoughts on social media in the future and how to take advantage of all the applications including Twitter and Google-Plus.

I will post another chapter from my trip over the weekend and I look forward to your comments regarding the blog and any suggestions.

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Off to the Show

You really have to love technology I am blogging to you from 30,000 ft on my way to Scottsdale AZ for the annual Centurion Jewelry Show.  Every year the top 1% of all retail jewelers in the U.S. are invited to attend this show.  Likewise, a very limited number of jewelry designers are invited to attend this three day event and preview their new styles for the coming year.

Unlike the large Vegas Show in June where over 10,000 designers and manufactures attend that show only the top 200 designers are allowed to attend, making for a much more intimate opportunity to meet and discuss jewelry trends with the designs who are leading the way in our industry.

I have set a goal to blog every day from the event with pictures and insights into the latest jewelry trends and designs.  As I am a beginner blogger, I will do my best to make this interesting and I look forward to your feedback, suggestions and comments.  S0 from somewhere high above the Midwest, I will sign off till tomorrow.

 

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